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News Round UpJanuary 18, 2005

Aradhana at THIRUVAIYARU

 
If you still have not made the pilgrimage to the Thyagaraja Aradhana, here is yet another opportunity to do it in 2006.

Yes, for those of us whose lives are soaked in the music of this saint, making a pilgrimage to this unique celebration should be an experience.

And no other festival can match this event that takes place at Thiruvaiyaru, near Thanjavur in South India.

This year's aradhana, the 159th edition, will be held from January 16 to 21, 2006.

A glance at the 159thThyagaraja Aradhana Festival programmes

The Bahula Panchami falls on January 19, when the aradhana and the group singing of Pancharathna kritis will be held.

To plan your trip, here is a rough guide for the Thyagaraja aradhana

The Thyagaraja aaradhana, is generally held in the third or fourth week of January, and for those of you who are visiting Chennai for the December Season and have time to wander of into the countryside, Thiruvaiyaru is a nice destination.

This quaint village near Thanjavur seems to live just for the aradhana. A reasonably full Cauvery, chill mornings and the vast tracts of mist covered paddy fields complement the divine music at the aradhana.

Thanjavur, the nearest town to Thiruvaiyaru, is 13 kilometres away and is easily accessible. State transport buses from Thanjavur take nearly 45 minutes to reach Carnatic music's own pilgrimage destination. There is a bus that leaves the station every 20 minutes.

Autorickshaws charge about Rs.70/80 for the ride upto Thiruvaiyaru. Meter systems are non-existent for this route so make sure you have fixed the fare before you jump in!

The aradhana features the world-famous, the young stars and the up and coming artistes of the Carnatic music world. Each taking the stage for about 12 to 20 minutes. In a way, the concerts are a medley that begin early in the morning and fade out by midnight.

The aradhana though is not the only attraction at Thiruvaiyaru. The much forgotten and neglected tenth century Shiva temple of Panchanadeeshwarar and Dharmasamvardhani Ambal is a treasure trove of Chola architecture and paintings.

As the name of the presiding deity and the town suggest, Thiruvaiyaru has as many as five rivers running nearby. There are some interesting lores associated with this ancient temple. For example, doing a pradakshinam of the Thiruvaiyaru temple is not allowed because it is believed that Lord Shiva's holy locks grow here. Having a local resident on your side will help you gather lots of wonderful tidbits like these.

Get your lodging organised at Thanjavur as there are virtually no facilities in Thiruvaiyaru. Decent accommodation in Thanjavur will cost about Rs. 300 a day.

The more upmarket three-star hotels like Pandian Residency or Oriental Tower charge anywhere between Rs.520 and Rs.1400. (You can call the former on 04362-231295 and the latter on 04362- 230724 / 231467).

Many aradhana pilgrims opt to spend the nights under the pandal inside the Thyagaraja Temple. The smart traveller can befriend a local and be his guest for a couple of days but paying guests are not exactly the rage here drop the idea if you are not the adventurous type!

Walking is the best way of getting around in Thiruvaiyaru. Autos charge Rs.15 even for short distances!

Hotel Ganesh Bhavan, near the town bus stand, is the only good restaurant in Thiruvaiyaru. But here too, as the aradhana approaches, the water levels in the chutney and sambar go up drastically! You can eat at the Thyagaraja memorial campus but only if you are prepared to fight it out for a place inside the dining hall. Don't miss the mouth-watering local speciality called Asoka Halwa.

Vetarans of Thiruvaiyaru bring their food packed from nearby towns. Otherwise, be prepared to survive on oily snacks, tender coconut water, fruits and hot coffee.

Communication is not a problem at Thiruvaiyaru: there are lots of STD booths and Internt centres. Arm yourself with a good camera for some great photo opportunities.

Every village enroute to Thiruvaiyaru from Thanjavur has a temple whose history dates back to a few centuries!

you may check out

Thyagaraja Aradhana - 2003

Thyagaraja Aradhana - 2004

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